Carcassonne

 

A brief history -

The fortified town of Carcassonne resides on a strategic outcrop, commanding the main communication route between the Mediterranean Sea and Toulouse. As early as the 1st Century, Roman legions established a encampment here, and held it until the 5th. Century, when it was conquered by the Visagoths.

The main town gate, the Porte Narbonnaise (October 1999)

Already an important stronghold, Carcassonne was again captured in the 8th. Century by the Franks. Due to its military might and strategic location, Carcassonne enjoyed a period of prosperity that lasted until the 1200s, when the Albigensian Crusade came crashing down upon the region.

A good shot of the inner and outer town walls. (Oct 1999)

This crusade was aimed at stamping out the Cathar heresy, and the Viscount of Carcassonne, Raymond-Roger Trencavel, offered protection to the pursued Cathars. Carcassonne was besieged on August 1, 1209 by the northern army, and its defenses (at this time only a single rampart) were defeated two weeks later when the water supply ran out. Trencavel was shortly after found dead in the tower he was held prisoner. Cathar heretics fled to more remote sites, such as the Chateau de Peyrepertuse and Queribus.

Gatehouse of the Chateaux Comtal inside Carcassonne, note the fixed stone bridge and dry moat (Oct 1999)

Trencavel's son attempted a revolution in 1240 in order to regain his inheritance, and layed siege to the town. This attempt failed due to improvements made in Carcassonne's defenses, and from this time on the town was considered impregnable.

Another view of Chateaux Comtal (Oct 1999)

Once Roussillion was annexed under the Treaty of the Pyrenees, Carcassonne's military position dwindled as the town was now almost 200 kilometers from the new border. The town was abandoned, and total demolition was considered.

Interior detail of interior, Chateaux Comtal (Oct 1999)

Under the Romantic movement, however, a local archeologist pushed the French government to restore the city, and due to his efforts, the Commission of Historical monuments agreed to restore the town starting in 1844.

Carcassonne today -

Carcassonne is almost two castles in one; the Chateau Comtal lies within the massive, town walls, these consisting of an inner and outer rampart. Due to the period of time that Carcassonne was under military development, almost every medieval militarial architectural development can be found here. Due to the differences of construction techniques, it is easy to trace the original Roman fortifications; the improvements made in the 1200s, and later additions.

View of the Porte Narbonnaise and the town wall taken at sunrise from our hotel room (Oct 1999)

Carcassonne is a vibrant tourist city, but despite that fact and our natural aversion to other tourists, we loved the city, staying there two nights. This is a big city, and you can dine and stay inside the main town walls. As parking within can be a problem, we choose a hotel right outside the Porte Narbonnaise, but you can find excellent reasonable housing almost anywhere. Among the typical souvenir shops, there are a number of fine art and wine stores, and we managed to find a wine, acquiring a 1980 Chateau Latour.

There are a number of excellent restaurants, our favorite was near the Chateau Comtal that served a grilled duck breast (grilled on an open fireplace next to our table). This area of France is also known for the Cassoulet, a thick stew of beans, sausage, pork, mutton, and either goose or duck. We definitely recommend you trying this once, it goes excellently with the local bread, white wine, and medieval scenery.

The easiest way to get to Carcassonne is by highway, either east on the A 61 from Toulouse, or west on the same highway from the Mediterranean, than follow the signs.

Inner courtyard between the inner and outer town walls (Oct 1999)

Nightime view of the inner curtain wall of Carcassonne.

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A nice map of Carcassonne, Note that this town is almost 4 kilometers long! Map hijacked from travel guide.

 

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