We got up early, around 9:00 or so, and walked once more through Ribeauville, this time in search for croissants and coffee. After a successful hunter/gathering trip, we loaded up the car and headed on our way to the next town 5km down the Route du Vin, Riquewihr.
We stopped outside We took a nice stroll around the city walls of Riquewihr and walked the entire length of the main street. Starting early, at 10:00 we stopped and sampled the first of many wines. At our first wine merchant (Gustave Jung) we purchased 6 bottles, 2 Muscats (1997), 2 Pinot Noirs (1997), and 2 Tokay Pinot Gris (1997). Feeling the grape induced glow, we walked to the top of the town and purchased 2 more bottles at another vintner (Bernard Schwach), this time both were 1997 Gewurztraminer Reserves. --
Even the bug was feeling happy, after the tastings, and the promise of another nice day in Alsace.
Back in Riquewihr we captured a room in the hotel that was recommended by The Wine Spectator, la Hotel de la Couronne. We were parked, unpacked, and on the town by 4:30 in the afternoon.
We ended up the afternoon wandering Riquewihr, drinking "new" wine, regular wines, and eating the sampled bits and pieces that venders were offering. We purchased 2 more bottles of wine, this time at Domaine Baumann, a 1996 Gewurztraminer Sporen Grand Cru. While celebrating our purchase with a bottle of Dopff (au molin) 1994 Riesling at a small street café, we were introduced to the positive side of French culture by three vineyard workers who were carrying what was perhaps the largest loaf of bread I have ever seen. These three gentlemen must have seen us as bread deficient, and they were kind enough to offer some to us in order to remedy this perceived problem. After a hunk was torn off, they waived au revior and meandered off on their merry way. No doubt they were literally dipping into the vineyards profits.
Dinner was had at a winstub that was again recommended by The Wine Spectator. It was, to say the least, outstanding. We sat alone at first in a old room that was now decorated as a hunting lodge, and started our dinner with a glass of Muscat and the excellent local bread. I than was fortunate to continue with an incredible onion tart for an appetizer.
For a main course we shared the crocoute with 7 meats for two - it was served with a ½ bottle of champagne (warm) in the center of a massive pile of sauerkraut, and the assortment of meats circling the bottle. The waitress than opened and poured the champagne over everything! It was superb, and combined with the Prime-Zimmer 1997 Riesling, it was perfect.
We finished dinner with the Alsace version of a Spaetlese (Gewurtztraminer reserve), cognac, and a cheese plate that was shared with Oskar, a black lab that belonged to the large family who was seated next to us. 590 franks ($100) later, we stumbled out into the night, and after walking through the town one more time, we stopped for a final nightcap in our hotel bar.
We’ve now returned to Riquewihr, most recently in 2007 when we did European delivery on our car.